Bicol with kids part 2: Catanduanes

CATANDUANES

To get to Catanduanes from Legazpi, we drove 1 hour to Tabaco City (on a Sunday, which meant no traffic, woo hoo!) and caught the fast craft Eugenia ferry, which makes the ride to San Andres, Catanduanes, 1.5 hours, instead of 3 hours, like the other ferries.

Ferry cnosts PHP320 for adults and PHP145 for kids (age 5-11). There is a PHP30 terminal fee.

From San Andres, a driver from the AirBnB rental picked us up and drove us the 1h30 minutes to Puraran Beach, where we stayed for 5 nights.

You can also take a ferry to Virac, which is 1 hour from Puraran Beach.

To get back to Manila, we flew Cebu Pacfic from Virac. A tiny airport with a terminal fee of PHP100 per person. 

ACCOMODATION IN PURARAN

Puraran Beach is known for it’s surfing. It was our first time trying surfing there, and it was great!

It’s a gorgeous, very natural beach:

We stayed in an AirBnB which a friend recently starting renting out, which we were excited to try. While it’s nothing fancy, it is the only house to stay in at the beach- the rest of the accomodation are rooms (bahay kubos) of the 3 resorts there. It’s a spacious houseonly a 2-minute walk away from the beach. It has 2-bedrooms with a bathroom each (1 bedroom on main floor, 1 bedroom on the next floor up). It is equipped with a lounge area on each level, and a kitchen which has all your basic necessities. The best part of the house- ok, there’s three best parts. One is the nipa hut on the top, roof level of the house- where we enjoyed hanging out while it was raining, where we star-gazed at night and where in the morning I would sit and listen to the chirping of the birds and sounds of the waves, seriously so many sounds! And watch the night sky turn into day. The second thing is the caretaker of the house, Onyong, and his wife. He is there for whatever you may need! Which for us, included rides in his trike and surfing lessons from him- he’s also a surf instructor. Oh, he also climbed a coconut tree for us to get us a buko so the kids could have a fresh drink after a hike we did. His wife is also available to cook and do laundry if needed. The third thing, is the house comes with 4 surf boards available for use. Which is a great deal, bc to rent one surfboard per day is PHP400.

A pic of the outside of the house:

It's the one on the left. The one on the right is a bahay kubo of one of the neighboring resorts.

Some pics of the inside of the house:

The view from the roof of the farmland next door. The green pathway leading up to the house:

 The Nipa Hut at the roof, and a view at 5:30 in the morning:

Kuya Onyong, the caretaker, taking care of us

A couple things to mention:

a) So I am saying the house is nothing fancy, but the more I think about it, for the area- it is fancy! In that in this area, you really are in the “bukid” as they say – wild land. I only realized how true this was, when the supermarket in Virac where they told me to stock up at was really, the only supermarket close by- an hour away. Not only that, there really was no wet market close by either. And I had to get our food from Puraran town, which is just above Puraran Beach- but all they have there are some sari sari stories… where the only fruit available is bananas, and the veggies available were limited to what someone brought from Virac that day. One time I bought the last three good carrots from the store. To get to Puraran town from the beach is a 3-minute trike ride, or a 15-minute hike up. This house provides a great way to be out in the bukid but have space, beds, bathroom and a kitchen to use, as well as a great nipa hut on the roof and an area on the ground floor where we put plastic tables and chairs out to be able to eat outdoors.

The best-stocked sari sari store in Puraran, with its fruits and veggies

b) So if you do go here, do stock up on groceries and fruits and veggies in Virac before coming. There is yummy bread sold in the sari sari stores in puraran, freshly made by the bakery there. Also, anything special you need like sunscreen, diapers--- bring it all from home!

c) There are three beach resorts in Puraran to stay in, all basic and all right next door to each other. There’s Puraran Surf resort, Surfer’s Paradise, and Majestic Puraran resort. I didn’t go to Majestic resort, but we did eat many meals at Puraran Surf and one at Surfer’s Paradise. At Puraran Surf, the grilled fish, mixed veggies dish, potato and sweet potato fries (from freshy cut potatoes), the chicken curry, chicken adobo and pork sinigang were all very good. Meals were inexpensive, PHP 600-700 for our family of 7. Surfer’s Paradise is where we got two surf instructors from, for 150PHP/hour. They were helpful with the kids.

The food at Puraran Surf resort

d) Another eatery worth mentioning is at the top of Puraran beach, there is a little shack called Pamplona Foodtrip which serves fruit shakes and where the nightlife of Puraran is at. Just kidding, it’s so quiet here! But it is fun to venture up there at night and talk with the locals and get food and sit in this shack. There’s popcorn for p5 a bag nearby, pork bbq for p10 a stick close by too. And we ordered chopsuey at Pamplona food trip which was also good.

Enjoying Pamplona Foodtrip nightlife

WHAT ELSE IS THERE TO DO IN PURARAN?

1) Binurong Point – this is a beautiful lookout point that you hike up to and then have a view of meadows, cliffs and ocean all around you. It looks like what I imagine Batanes to look like. Take a trike for 15 minutes in the direction of Virac, and then there’s a turnoff for Binurong point. At the bottom of the hike, you pay P20 per person as well as for a guide (they said pay him/her P200 and up). The hike up with kids took us 45 minutes, and is hard work so you do want to go when it’s not too hot, like early in the morning). There is also hardly any shade at the top, so the earlier the better. Some people go there for the sunrise. Views at the top of the hike:

2) There’s another lookout point called Balacay, this is a 15-minute trike ride from Puraran, and is a minimal walk to the lookout point.

3) There’s waterfalls to visit about an hour away from Puraran called Hulugan Falls, and on the way, there’s a lagoon with tidal pools to go visit. Kuya Enyong, the caretake of the house, is also a tour guide;) He knows all these places and is the one who told me about them all and showed me photos on his phone, even though we didn’t end up going.

4) Because of friends being into Survivor, I was interested in going to visit the Caramoan islands from Catanduanes. Just FYI to get there, you have to go past San Andres to another port (Colon?) and take a 45-minute ferry. We were loving Catanduanes so much, we didn’t end up going.

Bicol with kids part 1: Albay

Just returned from a fantastic 7 days in the Bicol area and jotting down my notes.

First of all, we did 2 full days in Albay Province to see Mount Mayon, primarily. And then 4 full days in Catanduanes Province, at Puraran Beach.

ALBAY
For Albay, we flew from Manila into Legazpi airport on Cebu Pacific (tickets were on promo for about PHP4000 per person). We stayed just outside of Legazpi City, in Daraga. This ended up being a great location to see what we wanted to see, and to stay away from traffic in Legazpi City.

ACCOMODATION
We stayed at Balay de la Rama Bed and Breakfast, which is a pleasant, airy house with rooms, plop in the middle of the everyday town life of Daraga- but yet has nice greenery around it. To get there was a 10-minute drive from the airport. We paid PHP150 for a van (which we got just outside the airport, there are lots of people there asking if you want to use their car service). We got two adjoining rooms (called Ibon and Hangin), which each have a queen bed for PHP2000 and we paid PHP500 for an extra mattress in each room. The rooms were basic and clean, and rustically decorated. These two rooms are on the top floor of a 3-level house, and there’s a lounge area just outside the two rooms that was great for us to have space to sit and relax in. There’s a third room on this floor, called Mayon – should you need another room for your group. I loved being in the middle of local life- tricycles, jeepneys and buses pick people up right outside the house’s gate. One downside is the road noise at night (windows of our room faced the road), but being in the province, it was minimal and we just embraced it (as well as the roosters in the morning). Mayon room doesn't have windows facing the road and may be more quiet. Karen, who runs the B and B, was super nice and helpful, and all the staff working there were great. We needed transport to Tabaco City to catch a ferry and one of the staff drove us in the B and B’s car for PHP800. The rooms include breakfast for 2, and were substantial. Oh and most importantly, this is the view from the balcony of the level the rooms are at:

This is the view of the B and B’s garden, we ate breakfast just inside of here:

What the hotel rooms and lounge area look like:

WHAT TO DO
1) Enjoy Bicolano food. Bicol is known for it’s cuisine, particularly for the spiciness of it’s food (use of sili or chili). Two dishes to try are Bicol Express (stew of pork and veggies cooked in chili and coconut cream) and Pinangat Roll (shredded taro leaves, shrimps, pork, and ginger wrapped in a taro leaf and cooked in coco milk). We tried these at a wonderful restaurant called Balay de Bicol in Daraga itself, just a short tricycle ride away from the B and B (PHP8 per person per ride). This is an ancestral home-turned-restaurant which was tastefully decorated, and wonderfully equipped with a terrace where we enjoyed lunch in the heart of the provincial life! They have a large menu- the kids enjoyed their french fries and chicken nuggets.

Inside and outside of Balay de Bicol

Bicol Express and Pinangat Roll

A local also recommended that we try the Chili-flavored ice cream at 1st Colonial Bar and Grill. There’s actually one branch in Daraga and another one in Legazpi. We went to the one in Legazpi in the LCC Mall, which is near Embarcadero Mall and Puro, the boardwalk of Legazpi (see below). This was a great place to eat with kids. Large menu, all Filipino food, but kids could pick out what they wanted, pancit noodles, ribs, lumpiang shanghai, or sinigang! (Really, it’s all there). I had the Bahay Kubo salad which was delicious, and has the veggies in the children's song, including peanuts and sesame seeds. And yes, the waiters did sing Bahay Kubo to me as they brought out the salad. This was an inexpensive place, under PHP1000 to feed our family of 7, and that’s including ice cream. And whoah! The ice cream, so many local flavors to choose from! Chili, Ginger, Calamansi, Melon, Gabi, Malunggay, Pili nut, Cacao and Vanilla (shown in the pic)…. What a fun experience!

Bahay Kubo salad

Ice cream flavors

2) Enjoy Mount Mayon! This was our main reason for going to Legazpi. We were not planning to, but ended up experiencing Mount Mayon through an ATV experience, using Lava ATV rental company, which was a superb company to use with kids. For a 2.5 hour tour (the Green Lava tour), it cost PHP1600 per ATV. We needed 2, and loaded kids on with us. Every group has to take a guide who is on his own ATV, and he rode with 2 of our kids with him. So, basically, kids ride for free. There is a shorter 45-min tour (Cagsawa tour for PHP69), and a longer 3.5 hour tour (Black Lava tour for PHP1950). For our tour, we rode through streams and farmlands, and barangay and jungle, to get to a view point where we had an awesome view of Mount Mayon. The kids absolutely loved adventuring on an ATV and I loved being able to show them this aspect of the Philippines (the country life), this way. Outside (versus in a car), and on a moving vehicle (versus them walking which wouldn’t have lasted very long in the heat!). Zooming though Filipino landscape as a family like that was memorable and so exciting! At the tope, we rested and enjoyed the view for 45 minutes before returning. There is buko juice at the top (PHP 25).

LavaATV Company is located just next door to the parking lot/market area of Cagsawa Ruins. They are open 6am to 5pm. There are a few other companies located nearby. We appreciated the upfrontness of this company (they have all the prices listed) and didn’t feel them trying to get us to spend more. And they made sure we were comfortable and safe, and our guide was great with the kids. They have a hose and toilets to use after the tour, and a place to lock up valuables.

The ride up the trail 

We passed a barangay where there was a lady weaving Abaca outside of her home. So amazing!

3) Other things we did:

a) Went to Legazpi’s boardwalk, Puro (take a jeepney to LCC center, and walk to Embarcadero, then take tricycle from there). From here there’s a great view of Mayon rising from the water, and also a pier that is fun for the kids to walk on. Taho guy, Sorbetero, chicharon and quail egg vendors--- they are there for a snack ;)

b) Enjoyed Lignon Hill nature park. This turned out to be a 30-minute hike for us bc trikes/jeepneys are not allowed past the entrance to the park (for which there is an entrance fee of PHP10 or 20 per person). So we had to walk to the top. Private cars are allowed to drive to the top. There’s a 360 view of the area, including Mount Mayon. Some snack places (we had a good veggie omelet up here) and some souvenir shopping. Popsicle sticks with even Chili flavor are available up here for PHP10. But the best part, really is being surrounded by lots of greenery: lawns and trees and bushes.

c) Visited Cagsawa Ruins. A 10-minute jeepney ride from the B and B. It’s ruins of Cagsawa town which was buried by lava in 1814, including a church. Quite touristy but there’s a nice view of Mayon, and still worth going to to enjoy the green of the area and the overgrowth in the ruins (and play hide and seek in it). There’s a lot of souvenir shopping here. More than I could take home, unfortunately!

d) Daraga Palengke. I ventured to this wet marker early one morning with one of my kids (5-minute trike ride) away from the B and B. My, what a sight for the eyes! Lots of rice-based treats to try. One that I had never seen before was this one, a type of puto where they put rice flour in coconut shells and cook it by steaming them, and then putting sweetened grated coconut in the middle.

WHAT WE LOVED ABOUT ALBAY
1) Okay it was so fun to get around in trikes or jeepneys and not worry about renting a van and driver. Hopping on and off of trikes/jeepneys and figuring out how the network runs was fun and freeing! And felt totally safe and secure.

2) I think people all over the Philippines are so nice, but the Bicolanos have some extra warmth and honesty. A big thing for us, was nobody trying to get us to pay more just bc we were tourists/foreigners/from Manila. Trike and jeepney drivers never asked for inflated fares, and all were honest in how much they charged. One trike driver even gave me back the money I paid for my child, bc the child was free, but I didn’t even realize.

3) The majesty and adventure of Mount Mayon was unforgettable!

For more about Bicol travel, see Bicol with kids part 2: Catanduanes

Recipe: Panecillos de San Nicolas

Click here for a recipe and how to make these heritage cookies from Pampanga.

And click here for a detailed background and history of these cookies. 

Enjoy! 

Recipe: Chopped Thai Salad with Green Papaya

I love this salad, all the crunchy chopped produce in it make for a refreshing bite! I especially love that it has shredded green papaya in it, a fruit that I don't know many ways to use. And, the dressing this salad is paired with gives it the perfect flavor (thanks to the peanut butter and calamansi), as well as the perfect zing (thanks to the little red chili in it).

The recipe is from the Pinch of Yum blog. Lindsey is a food blogger who has lived in the Philippines, and she created this salad while living here. Take a look:

http://pinchofyum.com/chopped-thai-chicken-salad

We need some green: Arroceros Forest Park

Thanks to an Earth day celebration held at this park, we discovered this bit of green in the city a few weeks ago. It would make for a good little outing when you just need to let your kids run and be who they are. It’s a place of gathering sticks, throwing leaves in the air, and finding organic corners to hide in. These are things that used to be right outside our apartment building when we lived in Switzerland, but now take a lot more effort to find. This place has the rewards for the effort because the kids had the time of their lives running around.

Arroceros Forest Park is located in Ermita, Manila near the Central Station LRT stop (address is Antonio Villegas Street, 659A). This is about a 25-minute drive from Makati on a good Saturday. There is parking inside the gates of the park. The description of this park on the Earth day ad was: “This little forest park was created in 1994 by a bunch of women (mostly in their 70s). They proved that an empty lot (filled with debris) could be transformed into a dense forest which has attracted over 20 kinds of birds. “  And yes, it’s a little, wild forest in the middle of Manila City, and yes it makes me want to thank those women for creating it for the good of the city and for the happiness of my kids. 

Why we loved it:

1) For starters, this tree at the entrance of the park. 

2) The park is well-maintained (hardly any litter) and well-loved. It is maintained by the Manila City Government and a private environmental group of mostly senior citizen women called Winner Foundation. Check out this wall of upcycled planters:

This forest is cared for. On Earth day, Winner Foundation arranged for more trees to be planted:

3) The forest shares the compound with the Manila Division of City Schools, in this pretty building. The added plus: clean CRs! (But no toilet paper).

Between the building and the forest, there is some cemented space for events, or maybe for kicking a ball around or playing hopscotch? 

A storytelling event during the Earth day celebration

Street performer during the Earth day celebration.

4) It is 22,000 square meters of tall trees, layers of fallen leaves left on the ground rather than swept up, and meandering paths through the forest. So natural, and yet so hard to find in the city! Note that there are clearings where a blanket could be laid out for a picnic.

My daughter came running around a corner, yelling excitedly, "Mom, this is like Switzerland...where the leaves....are like SNOW!" 

And, there's interesting vegetation to explore. 

5) The forest was a world for the kids where they could have spent hours playing and imagining. 

My kids asked me, "Mom, how come you have never brought us here before?!" I definitely would have brought them here long ago had I known about it!